Ceremonial dressing is what’s working for the Roland Mouret client and business.
For spring 2024, the designer created 35 pieces of what that looks like in today’s world. It’s not just big gala gowns, but jumpsuits, shift dresses, two-piece sets and long, sleek dresses.
“It’s a category that could be a bit conservative, I wanted to give it a stronger identity,” said the designer in a preview.
He’s done so by introducing subtle touches by way of transparent sequins. On one black dress, it’s covered to give it the illusion of a starry night. Meanwhile, another has trims of sequins on the slim straps and chest.
The standout pieces are the ones where Mouret really let go by expressing his desires to be a maximalist. The sherbert pink and light yellow sequin dresses with a bow on the shoulders are reminiscent of Lawrence & Klauber fabrics that were featured in ‘60s and ‘70s pattern-cutting magazines.
The designer is disciplined in not working with more than six colors in one collection.
“We are quite influenced by that post-nuclear era. There was this decadence of diamonds because the fear of the world disappeared,” he said.
This is Mouret’s “Barbenheimer” moment — balancing out the dark with the light with elements of camp.