Dramatic eye makeup popped on numerous Paris runways for fall 2024. At Dries Van Noten, Lucy Bridge created feather eyeliners that were glued down to the upper corner of models’ peppers.
“It created an effortless, yet striking detail,” Bridge said. “The inspiration came from Dries wanting to create a makeup which felt realistic, something which the character we were creating could have done themselves.”
Bridge used a variety of different colored feathers to complement the hues within the fashion collection.
“People want to see a modern take on makeup, something which hasn’t been seen over and over again,” she said. “We have to make an impact, even if this is doing something simple and elegant.
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For the eye look at Weinsanto, Axelle Jérina gleaned inspiration from designer Victor Weinsanto’s collection, with its dried flowers, lace and soft, nude colors. “I immediately thought of stretched lines and colors in symbiosis with the collection — the touches of white as a wedding day souvenir,” she said. “Lots of fading and softness, with graphic lines adding a touch of drama.
“Black on the waterline, because the bride of 2024 will be wearing it,” added Jérina. “It’s a woman ready to leave everything behind on the happiest day of her life if her partner were to even slightly criticize her wedding dress.”
She believes it is becoming more commonplace for makeup to have a real place at fashion shows, as a continuity of and complement to clothing.
“We stop at nothing to stand out and be as innovative as the collections,” Jérina said. “Even if it’s a detail, a false eyelash, a color, a creative fade on the lips. But that’s just the beginning. ‘Less is more’ is history — anything is possible.”
For the Pierre Cardin show, the house’s studio fashioned eye makeup that seemed like a wash of blue from temple to temple. The idea? “The synthesis between the horizon line and that of the ocean surface,” Studio Pierre Cardin said.
The look was achieved with iridescent and gradient makeup in blue tones applied with a sponge and brush.
“It was a makeup look that could be bold on the eyes but balanced with just a touch of gloss on the lips,” the studio said. “This may very well become a trend.”